your soil
Similar to Greening Your Garden, the basics of lawn care start with your soil. If you haven’t had a soil sample taken in the last 5 years, this is where you should start. Many local garden centers have soil kits. DIY kits will provide you with a minimum of information. You really should send a soil sample to a lab for “organic” analysis. An organic analysis will tell you exactly how much of each “amendment” you need to add to your soil to bring it up to par. A “regular” soil test tends to include only the PH level and the three main levels of nutrients that you can correct with fertilizers: nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Ideally, you should take your soil sample in the spring.
soil pH
Most grasses like a ph level of 6.5, which is slightly acidic. A ph of 7.0 is neutral. Dandelions, on the other hand, like soil with a ph level of 7.5, are slightly alkaline. Therefore, a proper ph level will support the growth of your lawn while retarding the growth of dandelions. Dolomitic lime is used to increase the alkalinity of the soil, where magnesium and calcium are also needed. Hi-cal lime increases alkalinity where the soil has adequate magnesium. Flowers Of Sulfur is used to increase the acidity of the soil.
Organic fertilizers
Fertilizers list the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium on the bag, as 7-7-7. The soil also requires other macronutrients, including sulfur, calcium, and magnesium, and trace elements such as iron, boron, and zinc.
Organic Nitrogen Sources:
Canola seed meal: (6-2-1) maximum 5 kilograms/10 square meters (10 pounds/100 square feet). Last 5 months.
Fishmeal: (10.5-6-0) max. 5 lbs./100 sq. ft. (2.5 kg/10 m2). Lasts 6-8 months.
Blood meal: (12.5-1-3) max. 1.5 kg/10 m2 (3 lbs/100 sq ft). Last 4 months.
Organic Phosphorus Sources:
Bone meal: (3-20-0) plus 20-30% calcium. Max 2.5 kg/10 square meters (5 pounds/100 square feet). Lasts more than 12 months.
SingleSuperPhosphate: (0-20-0) plus 20% calcium and 12% sulfur. Max 2.5 kg/10 square meters (5 pounds/100 square feet). Starts to release in 2-3 months.
Organic Potassium Sources:
Seaweed Meal: (1-0-1.2) plus 33% trace minerals. Max 0.5 kg/10 square meters (1 lb/100 square feet). Lasts 6-12 months.
Wood Ashes: (0-0-1 to 0-0-10) Also raises AP level. Max 1 kg/10 square meters (2 pounds/100 square feet). Lasts more than 12 months.
Compost – that old black magic
All soils benefit from nutrient-rich applications of compost at any time. Compost from decomposed organic matter is the best overall soil conditioner. Improves drainage, provides nutrients to plants and provides beneficial microorganisms. Apply at any time of the year and frequently.
Irrigation
Most people overwater their lawns. Lawns need about an inch of water per week. If you haven’t gotten enough rain in the last week to recover a full inch, you can add your own rainwater from your rain barrels. A deep watering is much better than short streams of water. Soaking the soil once a week will encourage deep root growth that will better withstand dry spells.
Water early in the morning before it gets hot and the water evaporates. Don’t water at dusk, as this leaves the lawn wet overnight, which can lead to disease.
Court
Do not mow closer than 3 inches. Longer grass crowds out weeds and is better able to resist pest attacks. Leave nitrogen-rich grass clippings on the lawn to feed it.
Aeration
One of the main causes of weed problems is compacted soil. Compacted soil stresses and kills the roots of your lawn, allowing weeds to move in and take their place. Aerating the soil allows oxygen to penetrate and restores proper drainage. Most lawns need to be aerated at least twice a year, once in the early spring and once in the fall.
After spring aeration, cover with screen compost and pest-resistant grass seed. Immediately after aerating in the fall, apply organic fertilizers as needed. A mid-season aeration is recommended for lawns with a lot of thatch.
Use an aerator that will leave a “plug” of dirt on your lawn. By removing part of the soil, you will surely get air and water in the soil. Aerators that only use “spines” to make a hole could further compact the soil, and the holes can quickly refill.
remove straw
Thatch is a dense layer of dead grass stalks and roots compacted to the soil surface. It is resistant to decay. A thick layer of straw tends to prevent water from soaking into the soil.
The straw, thicker than half an inch, encourages insects and disease. Remove thatch in the FALL. If you discover in spring that you have a thick layer of thatch, air it out and wait for it to fall. Removing thatch will create some stress on your lawn. It will help if you add a layer of compost afterwards.
insects
ants
The ants are attracted to soils that are dry, nutritionally poor, and low in organic matter. In general, if you increase the organic matter in your soil by covering it with compost, your soil will hold more moisture and the ant problem will resolve itself. You can also apply sand, borax, or bone meal to the mounds.
Bedbugs
Stink bugs like lots of straw, dry roots, and low-nitrogen soil. Aerate in spring and summer and remove thatch in fall. If you have hordes of bed bugs and they are killing patches of your lawn, put a capful of dish soap in a spray can filled with water and soak the problem area. Next, place a piece of white flannel over the problem area. Bed bugs will cling to the flannel while trying to escape the soap. Within 15 to 20 minutes, vacuum the flannel or rinse in a bucket of insecticidal soap. It sounds crazy but it works.
web worm moths
If you see small, whitish moths moving quickly, you probably have web worms. The best action is to aerate and cover with endophytic grass and weed in the fall. If you need more help than this, you can try introducing beneficial nematodes as a “natural” control.
white larvae
These worms are smooth and white, with a C-shaped body. They can be from a quarter inch to 3 inches long. And they can cause parts of your lawn to turn brown and die. The best defense is a dense, healthy lawn. Remove thatch, aerate, and keep surface moisture to a minimum by watering deeply and infrequently.
Milky Spore Disease – A naturally occurring bacterium will control white grubs for years once it is well established in your soil. You can also try introducing beneficial nematodes.
beneficial nematodes
Beneficial nematodes are nature’s way to effectively control the larval stage (white worms) of the common bumblebee, European bumblebee, Japanese beetle, Asian garden beetle, black vine weevil, strawberry root weevil. and the May and June beetles.
They are a safe and sensible way to reduce infestations of white grubs and other insect pests without harming your lawn or beneficial insects.
How to apply: Typically you just add them to water and spray on your lawn. Follow your provider’s instructions. A pack of 50 million nematodes will cover 2,500 square meters. gold foot 250 m2 meters
Weeds
Most weed problems can be attributed to poor soil conditions. Take care of the soil and also take care of the weeks. Aerate, remove thatch, check PH levels, add compost.
Chickweed
This annual plant produces tangled stems that take root quickly in moist, acid soils. Check your ph level and adjust the acidity. Pull weeds by hand and your problem will soon be gone.
Clover
All clovers are extremely beneficial to lawns. They fix nitrogen in the soil and are often planted as “green manure”. Clovers attract beneficial nectar-eating insects. Think twice before you decide to kill this “weed”. If you’re determined to get rid of clover, make a solution of one part vinegar and one part liquid fertilizer (fish fertilizer is best). Spray the clover patch with this mixture. The clover and grass will turn brown, but the fertilizer will bring the grass back.
crab grass
This is a sign of close cutting and poor aeration. Amend your soil to get rid of crabgrass and pull by hand.
creeping charlie
Creeping Charlie mainly likes shaded areas. To get rid of it, she increases drainage by aerating, removing thatch, and adding filtered compost. Allow soil to dry in affected areas between waterings.
Lion teeth
Dandelions attract the parasitic wasp which helps keep populations of caterpillars, flyworms and earwigs down.
You can control dandelions by hand pulling, checking soil ph levels, and mowing before the dandelions go to seed.
Thistle
The thistle has a deep root that cannot be easily destroyed. It must be fully dug up as any small pieces left in the ground will grow back. Fill the holes with topsoil and sprinkle with ryegrass.
