Jude Laws Dr Watson English Court Suits
Every costume enthusiast who has seen the new Sherlock Holmes movie starring Robert Downey Jr. and Jude Law has made a comment: Jude Laws Dr. Watson’s character costumes and sports jackets were amazing! The dazzling shape and flattering architectural lines of their jackets have caused quite a stir, leaving people curious as to whether a modern take on their English court suits can be made for them.
The English cut suit is one of the most requested looks that most draperies receive. Unlike its baggy casual American or flashy and restrictive Italian cousins, the English fit suit is tailored yet elegant, with high-cut armholes, curved crescent-shaped sleeves, high-cut vents, and complements just the right amount of waist suppression. It’s easily one of the most influential looks in men’s tailoring. However, it is difficult to find a genuine example. Long mixed with traditional Italian cuts, the hybrid version is the most common cut that the general public will find in stores. While there are some cropped designers who come close to a modern take, in its truest form, the traditional English cut that appears in the film is nearly impossible to find.
The hallmarks of the modern English court
Although the traditional cut English jacket is practically extinct, there are some designers who have been inspired by it. Custom designers and tailors like Norton and sons, Richard James and Kilgour focus their cuts on the Savile Row style, which has long been the driving force behind British tailoring. Unfortunately, the purest forms of the cut will likely come from the bespoke English custom suits from these establishments, as off-the-shelf demand is minimal.
Here is a brief summary of what to look for:
- Shoulders: Dr. Watson’s jackets have custom-made shoulders with virtually no padding. Built to mimic wearer’s shoulders, its lines come from horsehair canvas and a felt pad, omitting the traditional stacked shoulder pads found on most suits.
- Fabric: Tweed, Tweed and more Tweed. Thick fabric is the best to match this cut, as its heavy weight allows the suit to have a strong shape.
- Length: Traditionally, the English cut is shorter than any other cut. Cropped to fall over the top knuckle of your thumb (where it connects to your hand) it is much shorter than its Italian cousin and is the most common ingredient excluded from off-the-grill hybrid versions.
- Waist: Almost a by-product of the short cut, the waist is usually cut with a high stance.
- Winds – Higher cut than any other suit, this is a throwback to when the suit jacket was worn when riding a horse. In the current version, it gives a much more pronounced shape when paired with a high waist and button-down stance.